HELP IN FINDING THE RIGHT SURFING BOARD AND VALUABLE TIPS
Want a new board or maybe just a little interested in learning more about wavesurfing. We at Surfers have been working with surfing for over 30 years and spend as much time as possible on the water. Our large surf department offers a complete range from some of the leading brands. The right equipment is the key to having a fun experience and learning quickly.
We know what is required for surfing in Sweden and the world. Below you will find some guidance and some valuable tips that can hopefully guide you to find the right one.
Ok - everyone who is into surfing knows that it is the most amazing thing there is, just as everyone who is into with surfing how hard is it. It is for sports that are very dependent on having the right equipment like surfing when you are going to learn - with the right equipment it makes it easier and faster.
Be honest with yourself!
The first thing you need to do is ask yourself ”how good am I?” what level am I at? Broadly speaking, there are three levels of wave surfing.
BEGINNER
Pretty obvious level – you’re new to the board. Maybe you’ve been to surf school and surfed a bit, but you need to practice paddling technique, pop-ups and finding the right stance on the board. Even if you sometimes get it right and can surf “green waves”, you’re still a beginner. Our experience is that as a Swedish surfer you are in this stage for quite a long time - it takes countless hours of training to get to the next level.
As a beginner you need the extra stability that softboards, beginner boards and selected longboards and funboards provide. The right board can be the difference between getting on the board or not during a session.
INTERMEDIATE SURFERS
As an intermediate surfer you are comfortable on The wave is fast and you get the waves you want. You paddle, drop, find your stance and wave on the wave and make some turns on the facet. Your goal is to go faster and get closer to the critical point and get more power in your maneuvers.
ADVANCED SURFER
As an advanced surfer - you surf a lot and relatively constantly. You have the technique and can vary yourself according to the wave and conditions. You are sure to wave and would like to take the chance to ”tuba”.
1- SHORTBOARDS
As the name suggests - short, small boards. In this category you will find boards for skilled surfers who want maximum maneuverability. These boards have a small volume and require steep, powerful waves and above all an experienced skilled surfer who knows where to position himself as well as on wave as at take-off.
The development in wave surfing has been very rapid in recent years - a lot of it is thanks to the fact that surfing has now also gained a foothold in countries where the waves were previously considered too bad. We have chosen to call the new generation of short boards hybrids. These are short boards with increased volume and width that make it possible to surf progressively on a small board even in Swedish waves. Volume and width in combination with a straighter outline and rocker give these boards speed and performance.
A hybrid is the right board for the intermediate/advanced surfer who wants to ride a short board even in slow waves.
However, it is not only in small slow waves that the board delivers, but most of the models also deliver well in head-high waves. Several of the boards span a wide range when it comes to length and volume and of course there is a big difference on the smallest one.
Mini Mals are smaller versions of longboards. They have increased volume with a long waterline that gives speed to the paddling and makes it easy to catch the wave. The round nose provides stability and control. A mini mal is between 7 and 8 ft.
Funboards are pretty much the same as mini mals except that the nose is a little smaller. This makes funboards a little easier to dive through the waves with a mini mal. However, we don't want to say that neither mini mals nor funboards allow you to "duck diva" with them.
Funboards and mini mals work in a wide spectrum and are the ultimate boards for those of you who are starting to get the hang of surfing and are looking for a little more challenge and performance on the water.
Master of style! Longboards are the board for every day with small waves or for those who like long rides with lots of flow and nice turns.
Longboards are the most traditional surfing style. The boards are usually around 9 ft or longer so they are sturdy boards. The length that gives a long waterline and the volume make them easy to paddle and to catch waves, some (not all) longboards are therefore a good option for less experienced surfers who want to catch a lot of waves.
Longboards are definitely not just for beginners - longboard surfing is its own religion with its own style of surfing. With a longboard you get the opportunity to cruise in the waves and with the right board (and knowledge) you can walk up the board and do a hang ten (10 feet ahead of the nose of the board). Longboards with more volume in the nose are often called noseriders. Then there are other models of longboards that turn more like a shortboard and give a more carving feel.
Longboards are a board model that everyone should have in their quiver - with a longboard you get more waves. Longboarding is a lot about style so think about what suits you - do you want to turn or slide? And make your choice based on this.
To make it as easy as possible to ride your first boards and learn how to get on the board, these boards are big, wide and thick. The nose of the board is large and round, which makes it easier to paddle and provides better stability.
These boards are designed to make it as easy as possible to catch waves and learn how to get on the board. People often talk about "foam surfing", i.e. catching a wave that has already broken and then surfing straight ahead on the white water. With these boards you get lots of waves and the opportunity to practice your pop-up and stance.
A softboard/beginner board should be used in smaller and slower waves (we have a lot of them in Sweden).
Our recommendation is to surf on large waves for a long time, because when you take a smaller board you will get more waves. It is by getting waves that you learn to surf and are the ultimate boards for those of you who are starting to get the hang of surfing and want a little more challenge and performance on the waves.
Easy to paddle and to catch waves, some (not all) longboards are therefore a good option for less experienced surfers who want to catch a lot of waves.
Longboards are definitely not just for beginners - longboard surfing is a religion of its own with its own style of surfing. With a longboard you have the opportunity to cruise the waves and with the right board (and knowledge) you can walk on the the bridge and make a hang ten (10 years).
Take a look at the side profile of the board and you will see what is called the rocker curve. It is the sweep of the board in the nose and tail when you see it from the side. A board with a very clear rocker curve is very maneuverable and turns easily. A flatter rocker on the The board makes it fast but somewhat harder to turn. Look at the outline or contour line of the board. A wide outline is good for slightly smaller waves while a narrow outline is better suited for larger and more powerful waves.
ROCKER
Rocker is how much bend the board has from the nose to the tail and determines the turning characteristics of the board. The more bend/curve the easier the board will turn, but it will also This means you have less “DRIVE” which is what helps you accelerate and maintain speed. In short, if you are surfing a pocket of the wave or a fast breaking wave where quick turns are required, you will need a board with more rocker to handle. If the wave is fat and slow, then A flatter rocker may be better for maintaining speed through dead sections of the road.
THICKNESS
A board that is slightly thicker will float more easily and be easier to paddle, but will feel slow and difficult to maneuver for someone who is small and light. Take your weight and conditions into consideration when choosing a board.
BOARD WIDTH
The wider the board, the more stable it will be, while also allowing it to plan a little earlier. How wide the tail is will determine how grippy the board will be. Shortboards generally have a wider tail while Guns have a narrower tail for increased drive and stiffness.
BOTTOM SHAPE
The bottom shape is the curve from rail to rail and is perhaps the most complex and most debatable element your board has.
Concavity: Allows water to flow under your board out towards the tail, giving more acceleration and speed. Different variants are available such as single concave, double concave, single that transitions to double concave (single under your forefoot and transitions to double under your backfoot).
Channels: First of all, channels are designed to give your board high speed and are perfect for very powerful turns. The negative is that it can be too grippy and the board will go on pipes if the channels are too deep.
V-shape: Designed to give the board the ability to quickly switch from one cut on one rail to the other. The V-design provides high maneuverability, but loses a little in speed.
THE TAIL (BACK)
Rounded square tail: Äs the most popular design for shortboards, rounded square Äs soft and forgiving in all conditions.
Square tail: Äs not very common, used for smaller waves. Unfortunately not as forgiving as Rounded square.
Swallow tail: Gives good drive thanks to a slightly longer rail but also a little more loose due to less surface area in the tail. Perfect tail for a Fish.
Round tail: Good when you edge the rail, round tail also gives softer turns. Good for surfers who are more forefoot.
Pin tail: The traditional tail for big waves. Holds the grip and goes soft, good when it comes to holding your line in a crazy wave valley.
RAILS
Boxy/Full Rails: More forgiving and suitable for shorter, fast turns. Good for surfing in small waves. waves and they also give the wave more volume.
Low Rails: Very sensitive and tend to cut and bite into the wave. Good for larger and "hard" or steeper wings and longer, smoother turns.
FINS & FIN SYSTEMS
FIN SYSTEMS
There are several different types of fin systems on the market. The difference between the systems does not make a dramatic difference in the performance of the board. However, the fins you put in the boxes can make a huge difference to the board's performance.
1- FCS Throughout the ages, the most common system. The fin is attached with two screws from the side, a special fin wrench is required. There are many fins for this system around the world.
2- FCS II An upgrade from the traditional FCS system. With FCS II, no screwing is required, the fins are pressed in. The base of the FCS II fins is slightly larger than regular FCS fins, this means that you can work more with the fin's flex points and thus improve performance. With the help of a "converter set" you can use old FCS fins in an FCS II box. FCS II fins cannot be used in an FCS box.
3- FUTURES A fin system that has grown in recent years. Futures are attached to the board with a screw at the front edge. A Futures fin has a solid base that goes down into the box, this makes it very strong and provides a flex to the top of the fin. fin..
4- US BOX The most common fin system for longboards and singlefins. The fin is attached with a screw that is attached to a nut that is located in a rail in the fin cassette. With this system you can adjust the fin's position. NOTE! Note that the FCS II also fits US Boxes.
Most boards have removable fins that you can replace. The material and shape of the fins can make a huge difference to the performance of the board. Surfboards come with different fin setups. Today it is not uncommon for boards to have five boxes, which means they can be ridden as a thruster, quad, twin and single.
5- Single or 2+1 Single: With a fin at the back you need to turn more with the edge of the board. Common on longboards. 2+1: A large single fin at the back and 2 small fins at the front. side fins
6- Twin Twin fins provide little resistance in the water and without a center fin to drag/brake, twinser boards are very fast and also create extra release from the stern of the board. Twinser setups are sometimes found on bread with fishtail.
7- Thruster The most common setup. Three fins provide propulsion and stability and work well for most people regardless of the conditions.
8- Quad Four fins provide propulsion and steering with good release in turns. Quad is good when things go really fast
WAX/PADS/LEASH
WAX
1- So that you don't slip on; When you paddle, you apply wax to the top of the board. The wax prevents you from slipping off the board when you paddle and from slipping when you stand up. The hardness of the wax varies depending on the water and air temperature. In cold water you need a soft wax and in warm water you need a hard wax.
2-You should always put a hard wax (basecoat) on the bottom, the hard wax creates a foundation that allows the softer wax to stay on the board. Apply the basecoat in a pattern, for example criss-cross or straight lines. Then you can smooth the wax out in circles.
3- Apply in circles. Here you don't have to press as hard, just pull until you see it stick. Wax again with topcoat before each session.
Pads are mounted on the back of the board to provide grip and feel. They come in many different designs but their function is the same. The tailpad gives you better grip and allows you to angle your foot without slipping - something that is very important in radical turns. Then it is good to have a tailpad because it is easier to find the right position with your back foot. With your foot on the tailpad you know you are in the right place - you could say.
Tailpads are recommended for all boards under 8 ft.
4- There are lots of different types of pads. Two-part, three-part, different widths depending on how your tail is and last but not least different shapes depending on how much heel you have... it's best to put the pads on floor in the store and test which one feels best.
5/6- Start by cleaning thoroughly. Try placing it before you stick the pad in. Remember that it should be very as far back as possible (under the fins) for maximum effect.
7- Now you can start gluing the pad in. Always start with the middle bit and make sure it is straight. Then you can do the side bits.
LEASH
The leash is an elastic safety line between you and the board. The leash is attached around the ankle with a Velcro strap and at the back of the board. The leash ensures that you have constant contact with the board and that it does not fly away with the waves when you fall. The leash is a safety feature for you but also for other surfers.
A leash should be approximately the same length as your board.
8- When you get the leash in the board, Make sure to keep the cord that is in the board as short as possible. If the cord is too long, you risk damaging the edge of the board - so make sure the leash's "rail saver" is in place. protects the edge of the board
BOARD TRANSPORT
CHOOSE THE RIGHT BAG
Are you going to travel with one or more boards?... or maybe you just want a simple bag to protect the board at home and in the car. Here are some tips for choosing the right bag:
A stretchy stocking that protects from scratches, sun but also protects the car from wax. Available in all strollers. Good addition to your travel bag but definitely not made for traveling with.
Approved for air transport! Strong construction and very good padding, extra thick and protection at the rails, tail and nose. Finns i massa olika varianter beroende om du ska ha med dig en eller fem brädor... Vaddering brukar variera mellan 10 - 15 mm.
Ta bort fenorna och ta bort det gamla vaxet från din bräda (Ingen kul om din kallt vatten surf vax smälter i hela din väska när du landar i varmare länder). Brädstrumpa eller bubbelplast är bra att ha och använd gärna rörisolering eller papp för att skydda railsen. Våtdräkt är också perfekt för skydda nos eller tail på brädan. Lägg fenorna i en handuk om du inte har fenbag.